Yokohama:
I'm about as far away from Yokohama as I am from Tokyo, and although it's far easier to get to Yokohama (straight line, 1 train line), Yokohama's station makes up for it by being the least transfer-friendly thing I've ever encountered. I like the ones where you literally have to cross the tracks to get to the other platform far better than the 15-minute jog through multiple levels, empty hallways, and determined businessmen that is the Sotetsu line to the JR lines entrance. Yokohama city itself, on the other hand, is very nice. I could tell you about the very important part the seaside place plays in Japanese-European history, the giant ship that still sits in harbor by a beautiful dog park that promises terraces of roses once the weather warms up, or the raised walkways that look out to the theme park with its giant ferris wheel. I could talk about the red brick warehouses dating back to the beginning of foreign contact in the 1800s and which now house rows of tiny shops selling everything from the best of Japanese teas and cakes to chopsticks shaped like lightning bolts, to pork buns and Pepsi, to the Uniqlo Home store taking up half of the top of one warehouse (http://store.uniqlo.com/jp/store/home/index.jsp). But nope. I'm going to talk about this guy:
Yes; that's a real sword. And he's eating the apple as he cuts it with a knife, both of which he's juggling. The flaming piece of wood is chopped off in this pic. He's also on a 12-foot tall unicycle and speaking the entire time. Good god. Anyway, I found this guy doing a show in the main park in Yokohama, Yamashita Koen, which is featured right along the main piers (the one with the roses). The first time around, I caught the very end, which involved this and having a guy toss him flaming sticks from the ground. I then wandered elsewhere, and came back four hours later to see him maybe a quarter of the way into his next show. This time, I got a good viewpoint. This guy was hilarious. He did a comedy act/various circus-type skills like these. The guy tossing flaming sticks, it turns out, was someone he randomly picked from the audience and referred to as his younger brother throughout the act, convincing him to do random things, like hold one end of a string of national flags while he talked about how much he wants peace for the world, or you know, chuck flaming things at his head. As a reward, volunteer-guy was given a miniature version of the performer's guitar case, which has a face painted on it. Sadly, few of his jokes translate cultures (including the brother ones). At one point, for example, playing on the Japanese obsession with cleanliness, he picked up a tiny broom and dustpan to clean up every last bit of the apple he was eating while juggling (not much actually stays in his mouth since he was speaking the entire time about how delicious it was and would his brother like a piece). He also balanced flaming sticks on his nose, rolled them over his back, etc..., played the most dramatic music ever to psyche everyone up for his awesome somersault, did pithy magic for the kids in the front rows, and entirely encouraged them when they kept shouting 'gambatte!' (go for it/good luck) while he pretended to not know how to put together his unicycle. This was definitely the best hour I spent in Yokohama, and I only understood about 70% of what this guy was saying and was standing in front of two businessmen who clearly thought the foreigner couldn't understand them until they noticed my Sophia bag. Hahaha! Best non-direct apology ever goes to business #1 for beginning to talk about how smart the foreigner was for understanding the street performer, by the way.
Up next should be the 日本民家園 (Nihon Minkaen), the Japanese Folk Museum. http://www.city.kawa
Honestly, this thing deserves its own post, and I'll try to do it justice soon. For now, though, the basics. I decided to go on the second-worst day of weather in Kanagawa all year. I'm awesome that way. It was snow-raining the whole time and maybe 33 degrees out. It's an open-air museum built in a mountain park on steep hills, with wood and dirt paths leading everywhere. Wonderful in the summer, I'm sure. That day, however, it just meant that everything was slippery, cold, and trying actively to kill me while I attempted to reach each house, most of which shoes must be taken off before entering. There were advantages, though. There was hardly anyone there, so I could wander, gape, and take pictures without people in them to my heart's content. Every person stationed in each house was also more than happy to talk to me as well, although I gather that's more of an everyday occurrence at this museum.
In many, they had people sitting by the (lit) cooking fires to tell you about the house and keep people from frostbite, assumably, so I stopped by one where a bunch of people were grouped around the fire. It was four workers, only kinda working, and two college kids visiting from Kobe. They made tea over the fire in one of the old-fashioned kettles (mmm....matcha!) and we all had some, after the guy making the tea managed to melt two of the paper cups while dipping them in the water. They found a ladle after that. The house we were in (the Misawa house) used to be a family home/pharmacy, so there were rooms for the medicine to be stored and a shop area built in the house by the kitchen. It's over 180 years old, very waterproof, an official national treasure, and from Nagano prefecture in Kanagawa (all the houses were moved to the museum, like Genneseo). The guy who was supposed to be there, since the other workers were definitely supposed to be working elsewhere, likely outside, told us all this over tea and jokes. I understood about 70% of it without girl from Kobe's help or the one worker translating things with his electronic book. He was very proud of that book, so he translated things that didn't really need it, such as 'medicine' and 'earthquake', but he was so proud of it and that he could pronounce the English words that I just let him go at it, even though he didn't actually translate anything helpful (like the random questions thrown my way. 'homesick' would have been a good word to translate, guy). We also talked about why America doesn't use the victory/peace sign for pictures when we are "number 1" ---seriously; the guy said that.----baseball (the Yankees are better than the Mets in NYC, by general decision/Godzilla-san playing for the Yankees), earthquakes in Kobe, the crappy weather, and why Kobe-girl and her friend were just friends and going out together on Valentine's weekend. The sign for gay was thrown out during that conversation (pinky finger up rest of the hand in a lose fist), which then created a conversation about American signs for gay after poor Kobe-guy and Kobe-girl strongly refuted that insinuation (and the immediately following one of them both cheating on their respective significant others). The closest I could come up with was flinging a hand back the way I was taught NEVER to hold my violin. Are there any? I'm not even sure there are...
Picture courtesy of Kobe-boy. The guy sitting next to me is the worker for the house, who had a wonderful sense of humor. The cups on the right were later inadvertently used to flavor the tea after they fell in that kettle you see over the fire. Behind us is a bedroom and we're in the kitchen/pharmacy/living room/main guests room. I don't know how it manages to be sunny while raining so hard; it's Japan.
In any case, I had a good 45 minutes of warm toes, feeling in my hands, and amusing conversation before heading back into the cold and checking out all the other houses. Folk houses are amazing; it's hard to believe that something made out of mud, straw, and a few hundred-year-old trees (some of which were still alive and serving as main support structures when they were scheduled to be moved, posing a problem) can last hundreds of years in earthquake central, then survive a move cross-country in some cases. Ok; they're not exactly the best-insulated (doors would be nice in some of them) and I feel bad for those who were still cooking in their living rooms in the 60's since that's where the stream was. But they are beautiful and few things feel better under the feet than tatami matting. Plus, the whole museum is located inside Ikuta Ryukuchi, a large park that has some mountain trails I'd really like to get to when hiking them isn't likely to end in me broken at the bottom of a steep case of steps. There's also a planetarium and art museum in the park, that I saw, and a college I didn't see. For the Y300 student fee, the museum is definitely worth the trip.
Plus, you get to see these: old Japanese kid's books! They were literally the only piece of decoration inside one of the houses, excepting a table. Oh, Japan.
And, a few of the houses house what is apparently one of Japan's best 雛人形 (hina ningyo) collections:
Now for the kicker: this place is literally 1 stop away from Ikuta and I didn't know about it before now. I could have spent so much time in the park and the museum de-stressing from how bad I was (and am) at Japanese but I didn't. And it would have been summer and super-pretty. Plus, they have neat summer programs. Instead, I haunted far-flung Yoyogi (ok...it was close to school).
That's it for all. I'll try to get to Kamakura and Kitakamakura, as well as work life, soon!











